I HATE SHARK Who is coming?

SilverBone china BeeswaxReal shark

The thirty-first of October

All Hallows.

A long dark table laid at night by candlelight, a silver tree hung with fossil shark teeth in the middle, an empty chair at the head, and a door standing ajar on the dark
Plate I. The table, laid.

Everything else about tonight is pretending to be dead. This is having them over.

In Ireland and Scotland the dead were expected on this night. A place was laid for them at the table, the fire was left in, and the door stayed off the latch.

In the Appalachians and in parts of Britain there was a stricter version called the dumb supper, dumb as in silent. Nobody speaks. Everything is done backwards. One place is laid for somebody who isn’t there. At first it was for the husband a girl hoped to see. Now it is for somebody who has died. It is the same place.

We think that is the whole of the holiday, and that everything else came after it. So we made the table. It is sold one place at a time, because that is how you will need it.

  1. IThe tree of tongues
  2. IIThe place
  3. II, withThe chair
  4. IIIThe candle
  5. IVThe lantern
  6. VThe cakes
  7. ThenWho is coming?
  8. ThenThe order of the night

Hallows ISilver, shark

The tree of tongues.

For about three hundred years the richest tables in Europe had a small tree on them, in silver or gold, hung with stone tongues. They were the tongues of snakes, turned to stone by Saint Paul, and they guarded the table against poison: you dipped one in your wine, and it sweated if there was something in it. The French called the thing a languier. There is one in Vienna from about 1450, in gilded silver, twenty-seven centimeters tall.

The tongues were shark teeth. Nobody knew.

This one is ours, and it is the only real shark this house has ever sold. Three hundred fossil teeth, about what a great white carries in its mouth at one time, hang from silver rings on silver branches. It stands in the middle of the table. It does not detect poison. It never did.

Each tooth hangs free, so it moves in a draught. You have left the door off the latch, so there will be one, and you will hear it.

Tree
Sterling silver, raised by hand  ·  nineteen inches, forty-eight centimeters
Teeth
Three hundred, fossil, between two and fifty million years old. They died on their own.
Foot
Silver on a walnut plinth
Edition
Thirteen, for Stensen’s thirteen rows
Takes
A year. Order tonight and it is on your table next Halloween.
With it
The Head of a Shark Dissected, 1667, in Latin and in English
Coming soon
A silver table tree on a Gothic domed foot and a walnut plinth, hung with fossil shark teeth in tan, gray and black
Plate II. The tree of tongues.
Close up: fossil shark teeth hanging on small silver rings from a silver branch
Plate III. Each tooth hangs from its own ring.
The maker’s drawing, with all three hundred. It moves in a draught. Touch it.
An old engraving of the open-mouthed head of a great white shark, captioned Lamiae piscis caput, with two teeth drawn below it, captioned Eiusdem lamiae dentes
Plate IV. The head and its teeth, from Stensen’s paper. The plate calls the fish a lamia, after the monster the Greeks said ate children.

Know your enemy

October 1666.

Two fishermen caught an enormous shark off Livorno, and the Grand Duke of Tuscany had its head sent to his anatomist, a Dane of twenty-eight named Niels Stensen. He opened the mouth. He counted thirteen rows of teeth in each jaw, and he recognized them.

He published the next year, in Latin, under the title The Head of a Shark Dissected: the tongues on the rich men’s tables had come out of this fish. An Italian had said so fifty years before, and nobody had listened. Then Stensen had to explain how a tooth gets inside a rock, and in explaining it he founded geology.

Then he gave it all up. He became a priest and then a bishop, gave away what he had, and died in 1686. In 1988 the Pope beatified him. So as far as Rome is concerned he is in heaven, and the first of November is his feast too: the one man on that list who looked a shark in the mouth and counted.

From above: a white plate and bowl with the name Niels Stensen on the rim, a small cup, the knife on the left and the fork on the right, on dark linen
Plate V. One place, for one person.

Hallows IIBone china

The place.

A plate, a bowl and a cup in bone china, white, with one person’s name fired into the rim in black. There is no other decoration. Nobody eats from it. You buy one for each person, when you need it, and the service grows as your life goes on.

Bone china takes its whiteness from bone. The old formula is half bone ash by weight, and the bone is cattle. It doesn’t have to be. Send us theirs and we will make the place with it. A person leaves about two kilos, which is four places, one for each house they are expected at.

  • CattleThe usual way.
  • TheirsTwo kilos by courier. What we don’t use comes back in the same box.
Plate
Ten and a half inches, twenty-seven centimeters
Cup
One measure
Rim
Their name, once, in the type on this page
Sold
One at a time
Admit one Every year, for as long as somebody lays it Not transferable. Who is coming? → Coming soon
Niels Stensen

Hallows II, withWalnut

The chair.

Solid walnut, the same as the box the deck comes in, pegged, with no metal in it anywhere. The seat is left unfinished, because nobody is going to wear it in.

Before the meal you pull it out from the table a little way, the way you would for someone. That is all it does.

Wood
Walnut, oiled, except the seat
Joints
Pegged
Sat in
Never. We check.
Coming soon
A walnut ladder-back chair with a pale bare seat, drawn out from a dark table by candlelight, empty
Plate VI. Pulled out a little way.
A beeswax candle burned down into a pewter dish on a window sill, its smoke rising, the sun coming up over a frosted field outside
Plate VII. Sunrise on the first of November.

Hallows IIIBeeswax

The candle.

In Ireland a candle was lit on this night for the dead. Ours is beeswax, and it is poured to the length of your night. Tell us your latitude and it will burn from sunset on the thirty-first of October to sunrise on the first of November, where you live, and go out by itself when it is light.

Fourteen hours, twenty-four minutes.

About 115 grams of wax.

Wax
Pure beeswax, with a cotton wick
Count
One at each place, and one for the window
Burns
About eight grams an hour
Coming soon

Hallows IVBronze

The lantern.

The jack-o’-lantern was a turnip. They were carved for this night in Ireland and Scotland, and the pumpkin came later, in America, because it is easier.

In 1943 a schoolteacher in Fintown, County Donegal, gave one to the National Museum of Ireland. It was about forty years old and falling apart, so the museum’s artist, Eileen Barnes, cast it in plaster and painted it. It has a pinched, angry face. It is in County Mayo now, and you should look it up in the morning, not tonight.

We cast ours in bronze. Somebody carves a real turnip, in one sitting, with a small knife, without practice. A turnip is hard to carve, which is why the faces come out like that. It goes into the mold and is burned out of it, and the bronze goes in where it was. So there is never a second one of any face, and the turnip is gone.

The patina is worked to the turnip’s own colors, down to the roots. From the road you would not know. You would know if you picked it up.

It holds the candle. It goes outside on the step, facing the road, because not everybody who is out tonight is yours.

Metal
Bronze, cast from the turnip
Size
That of a turnip
Weight
About three kilos
Patina
Violet at the top, cream below, roots and all
Face
Whatever it turns out to be. We don’t take requests.
Coming soon
A turnip lantern with a pinched, angry face, lit from inside, on a stone doorstep at night, a dark road behind it
Plate VIII. On the step, facing the road.
Five turnip lanterns in a row on black cloth, each with a different unhappy carved face, lit from inside
Plate IX. No two alike. We don’t take requests.
An open copper tin of soul cakes with currants and a cross cut in each, one gone, crumbs on the table, a candle beside it
Plate X. One gone.

Hallows VButter, saffron

The cakes.

This is what trick-or-treating was. For hundreds of years the poor came to the door at Hallowtide and you gave them a small round spiced cake, and they promised to pray for your dead. Every cake, people said, was one soul out of purgatory.

So this is what you give out at the door. Forty-eight to a tin, in six layers of eight: butter, saffron, allspice, currants, and a cross cut in the top. The tin comes in the cracker’s three finishes.

Keep count. You will want to know how many you got out.

  • CopperFox
  • SlateShark
  • WhiteArctic
Cakes
Forty-eight, in six layers, baked the week you need them
Tin
Tinned steel, hinged, kept for next year
Keep
Two weeks. They are not meant to last.
Coming soon

The rest of the house

What else goes on the table.

A lone figure in a gray shark suit on a dark misty country lane at night, the face lost in the shark’s open mouth, holding a lit turnip lantern
Plate XI. No. 2, the shark suit, out on the road.

Is it allowed?

We asked.

Every tradition already has its own night for this, and most of them are better than ours.

Judaism
Halloween is not yours, and you do not lay a place for anyone. You have the yahrzeit: one candle, twenty-four hours, every year on the date. We will pour it for twenty-four.
Catholicism
This is your night, the eve of All Saints, with All Souls to follow. Praying for the dead is doctrine (Catechism 958). Conjuring them up is not (2116). So you may lay the place. You may not ask it anything.
Orthodox Christianity
Your days are the Soul Saturdays, and your food is kollyva: boiled wheat, for the grain that goes into the ground. Use the plate for that, on the Saturday.
Islam
No place at the table. The dead do not come back for dinner. Visit the grave, because it reminds you of death (Muslim 976), pray for them, and give in their name.
Protestantism
You have your own thirty-first of October. Thesis 27 objects to the claim that a soul flies out of purgatory when a coin clinks in the chest, so leave out the cakes. The rest is only a memorial. Show us the verse.
Hinduism
You have been doing this for longer: Pitru Paksha, a fortnight each autumn of feeding your ancestors by name, with rice for the crows. Bone china is made with cattle bone, so yours will be plain porcelain.
Buddhism
Obon and Ullambana: food for the hungry ghosts, a lantern to bring your own home, and a lantern on the water to send them back. Send them back. Everybody forgets that part.